Full ECU harness. I was not told the year, but there is a large "97" on part of the harness. It is from a UK spec auto TT. I personally think I got a steal for what I payed.






The only "bad" thing I saw is that two wires going to the ECU connector [E10A pin 1 - ignition switched power and E10A pin 24 - EFI main relay coil] had a 1/4" spot where wire had been stripped back and a very poorly made jumper wire was attached. This was removed without hurting the wires at all, and just needs heat-shrink.
I am probably going to give it a good cleaning with some denatured alcohol this weekend. It's not very dirty, but there is some stickyness from where electrical tape was removed.

Once again.. slow and steady. This project is going the way of the turtle - slow and steady wins the race. Once it's over though.. the fun as a rabbit will have just begun!

[This message was edited by Drunk_Medic on March 16, 2004 at 07:50 AM.]

It took me a little over 2 years to get my 1j running. Well worth the wait but frustrating.

Upon further inspection, it looks like a couple of wires have been split/spliced with the extras running off to an extra connector. I am going to look up the pin numbers and see what this is exactly. The plug that it leadsm off to looks like a stereo harness connector with a removable cap, really.

Two years for that 1JZ? Wow.. I've wanted one ever since I've had my car [4 years now] but only had "intent" for the past two. Every time I have had money saved, it's had to go towards other crap that just happens to pop up. Maybe this time it will be different.

Holy crap...I swear I DONT want to do the wiring on my 1JZ! Nooo! Why did you have to make the pictures so big and make sure we saw them?! Aaack!

97 harness? I dont know diddly shit about electronics but doesnt the 2JZ have a different harness? Or is that one a 1JZ with single turbo and VVT-i?

This is a harness from a 2JZ-GTE. I took large pictures because I wanted you guys to know what I am "up against", and I want to document this whole swap to help others. When I am done, I will eventually get a whole website up, probably like Arnout's, to help others convert.
The 1JZ's wiring should be pretty easy compared to this, from what I've heard. The 1JZ ECU also has less wires than the 2JZ.
A 1JZ VVTi would have more wires than a standard 1JZ, and maybe as many as, if not more than a 2JZ.
I thought about getting a 2JZ VVTi and then thought "Screw that.. good torque, but mod limited and a wiring nightmare".

so you will be going 1j still?
the swap is simple, dont get too worried about it. just make sure you get a clip. that wat you will get ALL the plugs you will need to swap to your 2j harness. i think you should go 1j vvti.
hella torque curve. and original points as well.
yes, slow and stedy will win the race. if you need ANYTHING let me know.
-ANDY

No, not 1JZ, not 1JZ VVTi, not 2JZ VVTi.. I will be going simple 2JZ-GTE. It's tried and true. Sure, there are some special things I will need to do, but I'm not too worried about it.
I hope to get a JSpec engine, US 550's, resistor packs and U.S. turbines.
Over time, I'll BPU it and have a good time.
Since the 7M and 1JZ have some things in common, and the 1JZ and 2JZ have some things in common, I am hoping that the JZA70 instrument cluster I am getting will be an easy thing to plug. If not and I do NOT use it then oh well.. I will have a tach for any 1JZ-er that is missing theirs and unable to rev past 2500rpms.

i didnt even use the jza70 tach. i kept it but didnt even use it. i rev to 7250

Hrmm.. since I am going 2J, maybe I can find a way to utilize a TRD Tach in my dash..

that would work as well. the 1jz uses a scaled signal from the tach; that is the reason most people use the jza70 tach. the 7m tach uses a straight signal. mine worked fine so i have no clue if you know what i mean.

I was thinking about this...how would you use a JZA70 tach in a LHD car? I mean, it'd fit weird, I figured I wouldve used it... I'd have to see it in person I think.

Rev to 7250? :drool:

quote:

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Originally posted by Orion ZyGarian:
I was thinking about this...how would you use a JZA70 tach in a LHD car? I mean, it'd fit weird, I figured I wouldve used it... I'd have to see it in person I think.

Rev to 7250? :drool:

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I used to do electronic component repair. When you've seen it at this level, you can trace PCB board signals to wires on a connector harness, and a tach can be taken out and relocated or replaced. I had also planned on taking the voltmeter out and putting it in place of my stock 7M boost gauge.. because yeah, it's response time is pathetic, and will be worthless with the 12b's. They boost higher STOCK than the max boost indication on that gauge. I already use an aftermarket HKS gauge, so that can be re-used. I plan on getting an A-pillar to throw up an aftermarket oil gauge [by means of the MKiV union bolt mod], boost gauge and A/F ratio gauge. The problem lies in finding an A/F gauge that isn't cheesy and actually does it's job instead of "pretty ricer dancing".

wideband o2. better than egt. you can tune you car off of those.
the tach is interchangable.

For the fun of it, it's be cool to have two boost gauges for the sequential turbos, one for each turbo. I have no idea if that can even be done though. But the JZA70 and the MA70 have different tachs? That's just screwy.

quote:

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Originally posted by Raven18940:
For the fun of it, it's be cool to have two boost gauges for the sequential turbos, one for each turbo. I have no idea if that can even be done though. But the JZA70 and the MA70 have different tachs? That's just screwy.

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I don't think you could measure each turbocharger's output seperately; even if the twins were given their own exhaust manifolds and exhausts, measurements are taken from the intake manifold, which is pressurized by both turbochargers.
The JZA70 has a higher redline than the MA70 [just over 7k] and there is an integrated oil light.
There is also a component difference between the two; with some 1JZ's, a signal is needed from the tach, or you won't be revving over 2500 rpms..

I have weeded through the ECU and other connectors to delete wires intended for A/T operation [my harness is for a TT A/T].

Pin:__ Function:________________________ Color:_____

ECU Connector A:
9 2 park / neutral position switch #143 Green - Red
10 L park / neutral position switch #143 Green - Black
13 TRC [-] TRC- for Traction ECU #76 White - Red
14 TRC [+] TRC+ for Traction ECU #76 Orange
17 TT for datalink connector 2 (A/T) #142 Grey - Red
18 M normal / manual shifting (A/T) #142 Green - Yellow
25 MI manual indicator light #143 White - Blue
26 EFI [-] EFI- for Traction ECU #76 White
27 EFI [+] EFI+ for Traction ECU #76 Black
28 OD2 Overdrive main switch #143 Violet - Green
38 NEO NEO signal for traction ECU #76 Pink - Blue

ECU Connector B:
1 NCO [-] O/D direct clutch speed sensor Yellow
9 S2 ECT No. 2 solenoid Red - Blue
10 S1 ECT No. 1 solenoid White - Red
12 SLT [-] ECT solenoid SLT Light Green - Red
13 SLN [-] ECT No. 4 solenoid Yellow - Green
14 SLU [-] ECT No. 3 solenoid Light Green - Black
21 NCO [-] O/D Direct clutch speed sensor #142 Blue
23 SP2 [-] vehicle speed sensor 2 from ECT #141 Red
24 OIL A/T oil temp sensor #75 Orange
31 SLT [+] A/T solenoid SLT #141 White - Green

Wow, damn man I dont know that I'd have the patience to do all that wiring, let alone if they werent so small. Good job there, it might be useful to someone (not sarcasm)

even though the car changes every year it is VERY helpful to some.
i got all my info for swap online.