Ok, I have a few questions about the 1JZ. More specifically the single turbo vvt-i 1JZ. I don't care about saying "I have a twin turbo" and think I would find the torque much more useful as this would be a daily driver.

1. I was wondering if it's any harder to put one of those in a mkiii. I read something about an oil pan in the FAQ's and really didn't understand it.

2. I've read the turbo on a vvt 1JZ is a CT-26. isn't that the same as the 7mGTE. Could I use 7M replacement turbos (or upgraded turbos)?

3. What cars came with the vvt 1jz and what years and do they come with manuals?

4. This is probably the dumbest question I've asked about a car since I asked my dad how an engine works, but what is the point of twin turbos in parellel. If they aren't sequential then what is the gain, does it spool faster?

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Originally posted by Raven18940:
Ok, I have a few questions about the 1JZ. More specifically the single turbo vvt-i 1JZ. I don't care about saying "I have a twin turbo" and think I would find the torque much more useful as this would be a daily driver.

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It's not a TT designation that makes us look to the 1JZ. We want more power and reliability. The single VVTi 1JZ doesn't really make much MORE torque than the TT models; it just makes peak torque sooner in it's RPM range. How does torque affect a daily driver? With the peak torque coming on later in the RPM range and the same horsepower, your acceleration should be more smooth as opposed to having the torque sooner. You aren't drag racing to work, are you?

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1. I was wondering if it's any harder to put one of those in a mkiii. I read something about an oil pan in the FAQ's and really didn't understand it.

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Look under your car and find where you change your oil. That is the lower section of the oil pan. On some models of 1JZ, the oil pan is in a different place because of where the crossmember and suspension parts of certain vehicles lie. With a front or mid sump oil pan, the engine would be mounted with the oil pan sitting on the crossmember. Almost 500lbs resting on the oil pan is not a very good idea. The JZA70 and JZZ30 had the types of oil pans and oil pickups you need for the Supra. You can also get a custom oil pan made.

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2. I've read the turbo on a vvt 1JZ is a CT-26. isn't that the same as the 7mGTE. Could I use 7M replacement turbos (or upgraded turbos)?

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No, it is not.. and no, you can not.

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3. What cars came with the vvt 1jz and what years and do they come with manuals?

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I believe the cars with VVTi are 1996-1998 JZX100 Toyota Chaser, Toyota Mark II and Toyota Cresta, 2000+ JZX110 Toyota Mark II and 2001+ JZX110 Toyota Verossa.
The JZX100's have a MT version, but good luck finding one. Just bite the bullet and buy a 1JZ bellhousing new from someone.

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4. This is probably the dumbest question I've asked about a car since I asked my dad how an engine works, but what is the point of twin turbos in parallel. If they aren't sequential then what is the gain, does it spool faster?

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Two small parallel turbochargers spooled at the same time, and faster than a medium sized single back then. They were not ball-bearing, so some of today's singles may spool a little faster.
The sequential CT12Bs on the 2JZ made it where one would spool, to get things going fast, then the second would supplement to keep the fun going. Just to let you know.. some boost controllers don't like sequential setups, but they never have a problem with parallels.

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With the peak torque coming on later in the RPM range and the same horsepower, your acceleration should be more smooth as opposed to having the torque sooner.

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Define smooth. The quietest engine tested in the US was the 7MGE Supra at 40db at idle. It is so smooth it was refered to as buttery.

By smooth do you mean a flat torque curve? Because it doesnt have that either.
Edit: not if the torque curve is like the 2JZ.

"BUSH 2004"
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA
i hope thats a joke, for our nations sake.
7mge...bla,bla,bla....
sure buttery smooth is easy with NO TORQUE.

nick, how did the the whole 40Db quite thing come in anyway?

Do you already have the 1JZ?

My guess is not, but cruise the FAQs if you havent already and get a clip instead of just the engine.

btw Andy I went to SCTI and checked out the auto part, its f*ing awesome, I'm starting next year so maybe I'll see you? Also, my Internet Explorer is just that: a ford explorer so I cant go on till I fix it, I'm at school right now. Later.

Thanks for the info. I have a few more questions, but first I need to clarify a little of what I first said.

Daily driver = I can only afford one car (insurance, maintaince, and anything I just wear out i.e. tires), so it's going to do everything I want it to. Go to work/school everyday and maybe a little auto-x on the weekends. And yes, I do race to work if I'm in the mood and traffic permits or if I'm late. When it rains, I take half of the turns sideways. My driving is what you might call "spirited" when no one is in my way.

I understand what you mean by the fixed cam being smoother as opposed to the rush of power from the vvt-i. I was leaning toward the vvt-i single turbo because if had the same turbo as the 7M it would be much easier to replace if it went. Seeing how that's not the case I'll probably go with a twin turbo because it'd be easier to install (don't have to worry about oil pan and bell housing). And I bet the fixed cam is slightly more reliable, less moving parts and all.

Questions:
5. What kind of oil filter does a 1JZ take (or what car sold in america uses the same filter)?

6. I like the idea of a lightened flywheel. Can I use a lightened flywheel made for a 7MGTE or will that not work at all? I don't know too much about the drivetrain other than the basic layout and how gear ratios work.

7. Thinking of converting a NA auto (cause auto are easier to come by) to a 1JZ manual. If I bought a high performance aftermarket clutch would that have all the parts I'd need (excluding a pedal)?

8. Going the other way now, if bought a 1JZ front clip with an auto and had a 7mGTE with a R154 to install it in. What would I need? I know of the bell housing.

9. Can the 4.3 rear in a NA handle the power output of a stock 1JZ? How much power could it handle?

Thanks in advance for the help.

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Originally posted by Raven18940:
5. What kind of oil filter does a 1JZ take (or what car sold in america uses the same filter)?

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Same oil filter as the 2JZ.

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6. I like the idea of a lightened flywheel. Can I use a lightened flywheel made for a 7MGTE or will that not work at all? I don't know too much about the drivetrain other than the basic layout and how gear ratios work.

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If you can get a company to make a 7M flywheel and have the 2JZ flywheel bolt pattern drilled into it, then yes. Your other option is to get a flywheel from a Japanese company [check out Takakaira - they have many brands] like Blitz, Jun or whoever else might carry one. The drilled 7M sounds cheaper and just as good though.

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7. Thinking of converting a NA auto (cause auto are easier to come by) to a 1JZ manual. If I bought a high performance aftermarket clutch would that have all the parts I'd need (excluding a pedal)?

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Ask the company that you buy the clutch assembly from. If you get a front clip where your 1JZ has the R154 attached, you should have everything you need besides what you will replace when the clutch assembly is replaced.

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8. Going the other way now, if bought a 1JZ front clip with an auto and had a 7mGTE with a R154 to install it in. What would I need? I know of the bell housing.

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You need at least the bellhousing, flywheel and a full clutch assembly [pressure plate, clutch disc, bearings, etc.

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9. Can the 4.3 rear in a NA handle the power output of a stock 1JZ? How much power could it handle?

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Clean it, inspect it, bolt it up, throw some redline differential fluid in and find out!

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Originally posted by agent89:
nick, how did the the whole 40Db quite thing come in anyway?

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With a decible meter. Im just curious as to the smooth part. The number of firing pulses(number of cylinders) and cylinder arrangement determine smoothness. I was wondering what this motor has that makes owners of say its so smooth.

The stock dyno sheets Ive seen are just like the 2JZ. It jumps around 4500, where turbo number 2 startst to spool.

umm the 1jz get full boost around 2500-2800rpm
makeing the torque curve rather flat(having it come on so early and not really progressing too much after that), meaning that the car just pulls nicly from the bottom end of the rev range with out any jolt of power around the midrange usally common with turbo car.
i will post my dyno sheet(pretty much stock)

that is with intake, exhaust(no cat) and torsen 4.1 rear diff.

nice curve

what's the acceleration like? 0-60?

That isnt stock, unless its single turbo VVTi.

yes it is. intake, downpipe and exhaust only.
stock boost 8-10psi.
and no it is a 1st gen tt

WOW

That torque curve is freaking unreal man. VTEC can suck it! I can't believe that's a TT, but you have no reason to lie.

What's with the dip at 5300, and why doesn't the graph go all the way to the 7000 redline. If the torque keeps up like that, 350hp wouldn't be out of the question. And the TT is supposed to be cammed to make it's peak horsepower at 6200.

If that is the torque curve, then there's almost no reason to get the VVT-i 1JZ anyway. That thing just takes a shit on the 7M doesn't it.

well i had a map sensor problem, but that has been fixed now so i can look foward to going back soon and getting REAL numbers. rev cut on 1jz is 7200 so the hp has room to get at least 320 to the wheels. and yes the torque is great for a 2.5 liter L6. the boost comes on as soon as you hit the gas. full boost is reached a fraction of a second after later. NO LAG what so ever. even so in a high gear at low revs.
i just best my time at the track to 13.59 with no traction in first or second.

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Originally posted by agent89:
well i had a map sensor problem, but that has been fixed now so i can look foward to going back soon and getting REAL numbers. rev cut on 1jz is 7200 so the hp has room to get at least 320 to the wheels. and yes the torque is great for a 2.5 liter L6. the boost comes on as soon as you hit the gas. full boost is reached a fraction of a second after later. NO LAG what so ever. even so in a high gear at low revs.
i just best my time at the track to 13.59 with no traction in first or second.

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I know what you mean.. even with a 7M and an open exhaust, the boost comes on right away. I unbolted everything from the cat back, and even running open STOCK downpipe the power is just RIGHT there. I used to drop the clutch at 3500, would catch and go, chirp in second and a very small one in third. Last time I went to check, I couldn't catch traction until 3rd gear. When I got to third, the rpms were super low, but I still managed a stock 0-60 time. After that, I tried revving to 2000 and releasing. The launch was excellent, but cut short by seeing a car with no lights approach...
No ticket, but that was the end of my testing for the night.
I can't wait for whatever swap I choose. I've been thinking about it very much lately, and while it is going to take me a long time before it is finished, I am still very motivated to do it.

it will be worth it.

I forget, did Adi say the twins were parallel?

Yes that dyno is different than the others Ive seen. All were the same but this one.

If you think variable cam timing sucks, you need some basic engine knowledge, because you have none. The amount of duration and lift is different at every point on the rpm scale to achieve maximum torque. The single turbo VVTi will out run it.

The other torque curves Ive seen might not have been stock. I dont remember.

yes they are parallel.
hey i would never trash talk the vvti 1j. in fact i want one for the next mk3 i want to do. best of both worlds.