my car is a 97 tt auto with 105xxx miles on it and i just had the car tuned...or it was suposed to be...the car has full bpu with cam gears and when i got my dyno slip i almost cried....IT WAS A WIMPY 330rwhp!!!!!!!! WTF???? i do understand wut is goin on...is it because of my milage and the fact that its an auto? some one please try and help me out...thanks

what mods? what boost? fuel? cyl leakdown %? cyl compression? who did it? what kind of dyno (im assuming a dynojet)? ecu rest? engine at normal operating temp? trac pulled?

all i know is that it was done at turbo trix in new jersey...its set at 17psi and i have a super dragger exhaust, rmm dp, akimoto intake, blitz bov, blitz boost controller, greddy turbo timer, titan cam gears, apexi s-afc, greddy bbc on the car right now...and the car ussually has either 93 or 94 in it...do you have any idea wut the reason might be?

run a compresson and leakdown test. even with horrible tuning you should have made at the very least 350whp.

how would i do that what should i look for ??? if there is a problem how expensive could it be to fix?

compression test is easy and you should be able to do it yourself: http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/compression_check/index.html

the leakdown test is a little more difficult: http://www.proformparts.com/v2/TECH/PDF/66839story.pdf

thanks man...but if anything is wrong...how much do you think it can be to fix? o and how much is it to bring it to the shop to get those 2 tests done?

a shop would probably charge $100 for both test (im just guessing). if the leakdown and comp #s are low then (pending the result of a wet test) you would need to rebuild the head or rebuild the short block or both.

o crap! how much could that cost?

new short blocks from toyota are about $2100+ labor

if you rebuild the head yourself you can do it for about $500

to have the motor pulled, torn down, rebuilt could cost over $5000.

hey look at it positivly, maybe the compression and leakdown #s wont be bad and something else turns out to be the problem. either way post your test results before letting the shop work on it.

alright...im going to try and do atleast one of those 2 tests today by my self and ill try and have the results up later today...

o and idk if this would help but i forgot to mention that when it was on the dyno the check light came on for the engine...and yesturday when i was coming home from the shore it came on too...and some times it just flickers on and off when i turn or go faster then 75mph...idk whats up with that ,but maybe that has something to do with it

i also read those to links that you sent me and it didnt sound like either of those things would cause a 50-80hp loss like in my case...i just dont think it adds up...i dont understand how i could have lost that much hp

its simple low compression or high leakdown % means that air is escaping between the rings or valves which means you will not make much power. are there any symptoms when the light comes on? (ie stalling, rough idle). the easiest way to solve that check engine light is to scan it and see what code you get.

yes sometimes when i stop the car does have a semi rough idle...and sence ive had it it has stalled twice...what does this mean? sometimes this happens even when the check light is not on tho....im about to do the compression test now so ill have that up for u in a couple of hours...

hey its me again i just checked the compression and it was #1 165 #2 155 #3 165 #4 170 #5 160 #6 165....that was in order from the front of the car and back....are those bad? the engine check light is still on also...could it just be that the boost controller isnt set up right or the boost isnt really turned up...? please tell me what you think...thanks

those are pretty much perfect #s. the check engine light may need to be scanned by a shop or dealer unless you have a scanner. as for the low hp my thoughts are that either the ebc wasnt set up, you have a leak, the safc was set to run really lean, something in the ignition system isnt right, or the engine light has something to do with it.

so you dont think its something major anymore as of now? how could any of those things you just listed equate to my huge huge power loss tho? i still think soemthings kinda fishy

what do you mean by fishy? you think the shop screwed you over or something?

no i dont think so ...but i just dont understand how any tuning or soemthing electrical could create a 50-80 hp loss...