I just bought a 85 and im lovin it. But I want power! I am thinking about swapping, but I am not the richest person. is the 7m-ge a good pick and how much would one of those cost. ..maybe a 7M-gte would work. I need an easy swap so I can toast mah friends Lancer. o, and is 250$ a good deal on a spotless 85? j/w ...

Yes $250 is a GREAT deal, (mine was twice that much), and yes the 7MGTE is a good swap... MUCH electronic work tho... I'd just go with the 5M or a 6M and turbo it.

I thought about that originally, and the only turbo i saw was for a 5m, and it cost more than the cost of buying two 7m-gte's...am I looking in the wrong place?

Rabidchimp has pretty much the only complete kit for turboing a 5/6M. You COULD do it yourself if you really wanted to. Personally I like the 5M better, the larger valves are more resistant to heat than the 7M valves. The 5M weighs like 50lbs less too.

BOTH are EXCELLENT choices for pretty impressive power, so it's your call. You'll spend a lot more doing a 5/6M because of parts availibility, but its just as capable. Whereas you could do a 7MGTE or 2JZGTE swap, a challenge, but simpler to find stuff for, and the JZ parts are MUCH cheaper than the M series stuff.

My current mission is a high HP 5M that can be run on pump gas, and its starting to impress me. My NA MkII is now faster than my NA MkIII ever was with equal mods, so my next goal is turbo time. Hope this helps a little.

...im am sorry for ignorance, but how much is a JZ? and i have about 1500 for budget right now, i can go higher, but i have a month before school starts and i want it done. do you guys know where i can get a 6m/7m/jz??

If all you have is $1500 FORGET a 7M or 2JZ swap. You need an engine and electronics. TAP Recycling, Inc. is the best place to get good used stuff. If you are on a tight budget for now, but will have more money later and want great performance with literally bolt-on ease, then read this and do as follows:

*Optional* Install the 7M Stroker crank and rods ($1500) in your old 5M block, you will now have roughly a 3.1 litre. Dont forget to get a 7M lower timing cover and balancer if you do this. This will get you somewhere close to 200HP. This is where the fuel system hits its limit on the MkII. For more power, or to take full advantage of the things in this article, you'd need to install a better fuel pump, and either an ASIC or the 7M (yellow) 295cc injectors and a fuel computer... your call.

Now, for the necessary stuff: you need to have your head shaved (~$30) and ported and polished. Take advantage of this situation to get a good MHG off of a 7M. REUSE your 5M head, because like I said earlier, it is more resistant to heat (perfect for turbo) and will flow almost identical when machined right. Call up Colt Cams, and have them regrind your old cams (~$280), they GUARANTEE +15HP. Don't forget a 180deg thermostat and advance your timing to ~13deg.

A lightweight flywheel and good clutch are always a good call. Also, get a K&N, and remove your intake resonator. If you want, the cam gears from the 7M will fit, so if you got an adjustable set that would help much especially if you ever wanted to go turbo.

With or without the stroker kit all of this along with a 2.5" manifold-back exhaust w/ hi-flo cat or NO cat, (3" for turbo) will get you one HELL of a 5M... quite literally leaving many 7MGTEs in the dust, (the MKII is MUCH lighter, remember?)

This was my article, and the plan I am currently following. Hope it helps some.

thank you so much, now i have a plan to follow, i have a few more questions. how do i take out the intake resonator? and how much will that entire setup cost?(not the swap, the list you gave me.)....and one more, where do i go for a port and polish?.

thank you sooo much for this help. i will definitly follow this plan, and i look foward to smoking my first mustang.

I included all the costs that I knew off hand, but I don't know where you could have your head ported and polished because I do all my own stuff. As far as the resonator goes, its the round, black thing right after the AFM on the intake. Remove the clamps on both sides, take it out, and measure the legnth, (i cant remember). Get a piece of 3" pipe that same legnth and put it back in just like you took it out. I'd paint w/ some high temp engine paint before installing it for a cleaner look. If you do this in addition to the K&N FIPK you'll notice a big difference in sound.

Only thing I forgot to mention earlier was ignition, so you need to get NGK plugs, gap them to .040-.045, and get a set of their 8mm wires OR get universal moroso 11mm wires like I have!

As far as mustangs go they are a JOKE... you'll beat all the V6 and mild 4.6L with ease. I'm assuming that your car is a 5spd, in which case you'll be able to run head to head (and beat a few) 5.0s. I dont think thats bad for an engine almost 1/2 the size. BUT, if you decided to go the stroker and/or turbo route then be prepared to beat something a lot faster than a 'stang!

man, thank you so much, i have bought the 8mm wires, and the intake today, so im on my way, some parts are gunna be a bit tricky for me to find, but ill get it. Yea, of coarse its a 5spd, you cant race with an automatic. lol, its not fun. But can my car (with a k&n and sparky wires alone beat a mustang?) and do you think i can beat an 02' lancer ES, with a cold air, and nology wires?

sorry for all the questions, i am a very curious guy

...ok, now that i know what my car needs, I want her to stop smoking!!!, it gets to be heavy smoke wen i revv her, idle has no smoke, but once the gas is hit, there is alot of smoke( i know, im using two topics) thats why i wanted a swap, i didnt kno what was smoking, so i figured a new engine would take the smoke away, but i would rather spend less money to get the smoke away.

YOu'll definitely beat that '02 lancer ES (piece of junk and wasted metal) even my '85 eat those for desert after every meal. NOw I'm not saying it just to make my MA60 look tough but I say it because I just spend too much time at the track. You'll dust it! Now about the smoking, it only does that when you gas it huh... Now whatever you do, don't ever buy those "smoke be gone" and put it in your car! because do you know how thick that junk is? Thick enough to make your car start hating on you. When my '85 was smoking, at that time I didn't know about cars except pump gas and drive. Well, I bought some of those thick junk and poured it in and it actually worked and didn't cause no problem to my engine. yet I wouldn't recomend it because I've seen worse outcomes on friends cars. But you don't have to take my words for it. Its up to you to decide...Your engine probably have bad Valve stems seals and that can cause bad smoke if its bad. it can be a heach to work on too as well. YOu might want to double check your cat. if you are still running it because it can also cause bad smoke if its no good. Other than that, its usaully the valve stems seals. If you do plan on keeping the 5Mge make and you don't want to mess around with the valve stems seals, take it to a mechanic that you trust. welp, hope this helps.
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Valve seals will only smoke whitish-blue on startup unless they are totally gone, in which case I doubt your engine would be running very long before fouling out the plugs with oil. My MkIII used to do this. If you have an auto tranny the modulator valve would also cause smoking but it would smoke most of the time.

My car POURED black smoke at one point, and shot oil out of the tailpipe. Turns out that my head gasket was blown so bad there was literally almost nothing left. A badly worn and/or blown engine will also cause this, but thankfully my lower end was still tip top after 251,000miles.

I have a small video clip of the car smoking and (color and amount) its a small file, ill send if you want to to help diagnose. anything to get it fixed. Just gimme your aim or w/e so you can see

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