In trying to design the best PCV setup I can on the 5M/6M motor after a turbo conversion I think I know have a pretty good deal. But I know there are quite a few grassroot guys out there that always seem to come up with something that runs a little out of center field but rocks. Since nothing is ever finished I would like to hear of some of the other setups being run.

Jake

This is an excellent topic. Many think that the PCV is not an important system, however, if it is not functioning properly it can cause a lot of problems. I personally have a system on both of my cars that allows for high vacuum under all conditions. This causes the oil to look almost new when I change it because it removes all of the blow by gasses and condensation. By having "vacuum" in the crankcase the rings are forced to seal better--less blowby, better gas mileage, better performance.

Perhaps this topic is not receiving much interest because there are no turbocharged 5 or 6M's out there???

Dean Marcum
88 Turbo-Killing Mustangs and such
89 T N/A-Killing transmissions, rear ends, clutches and an occasional Viper

Dean,

I think there are a few but the problem most likley is that everyone just caps off the throttle body and puts a little filter on the valve cover as they would probably consider a PCV system as something not worth spending money on. I am sure after there next engine rebuild if they know what they are looking at they will come to maybe understand the need for one. Could you explain yours in more detail?

Jake

What I have found is that by keeping the crankcase under constant vacuum there is far less bearing wear and oil contamination. When I recently pulled the cam covers off the motor it looked as if I had just gotten it back from the machine shop. I run dino oil and this motor had over 10K miles on it. Pulled the covers off to polish them.

Anyhow, cap off the throttle body PCV hookup. The 5M/6M only has one nipple on the intake cam cover. You need to route this to a catch can. The catch can needs three nipples. One goes to the cam cover. A second one goes to the turbo inlet. The last one goes to a vacuum check valve and then to a constant (non-metered) vacuum source after the throttle body but NOT the brake vacuum line. The check valve needs to be positioned so that the intake manifold can only PULL from the catch can (vacuum) and not blow into the catch can (when under boost). This system allows for high vacuum from the intake manifold when cruising and then vacuum from the turbo inlet when under boost--there is a slight amount of vacuum there even if you are running a VPC with no air filter. There is no downside to running this setup that I have encountered on either car.

Dean Marcum
88 Turbo-Killing Mustangs and such
89 T N/A-Killing transmissions, rear ends, clutches and an occasional Viper

Dean,

Very nice and from a MKIII guy yet! I guess no BHG came from this! Since I am using the VPC ond 2 turbo's on the MKII I should be able to just run the pre turbo lead from just one of the turbo's correct? No Need to use both.

Also there is a nasty rumor going around that you are considering manufacturing a component similiar to the old HKS EGC, I assume that this is what you put on my car. I know that the HKS EGC was a nice unit but there was little to no support from HKS, I've never even seen a manual for one! Since this would be a huge help to those planning on turboing cars with a distributor is there any truth to it?

Jake

[This message was edited by DeanMarcum on August 23, 2002 at 05:35 PM.]

That is correct, just one of the turbos. As far as the ignition computer, I actually have considered making one to sell, however, when I brought it up before (and have actually taken people for rides in the red car with said computer) they were impressed with the performance but did not want to spend any money. Flat out the thing would be "expensive", over $1000. However, it has allowed me to run over 15 lbs of boost, on pump gas with close to 10:1 compression with no detonation. Most, if not all people that turbocharge thier cars overlook ignition control.
For the next round of questions: MSD is crap, Crane is crap, Jacobs seems to work fairly well but the Boostmaster is crap. Don't even get me started on the Apex ITC. There is no igniion control out there worth a damn that references boost pressure. The old HKS EGC listed for about $1400 and is very nice. Hasn't been made since the 80's though.
For the next round of comments: Sure, you can go standalone. How many people have actually done that? Also, I get through SMOG with my ignition computer because one button and it is off and the stock ECU has control of the ignition again.

Dean Marcum
88 Turbo-Killing Mustangs and such
89 T N/A-Killing transmissions, rear ends, clutches and an occasional Viper

I did not catch that before, I actually HAVE a real HKS EGC manual. My unit is based on the old EGC unit, just expanded upon. Want to run high compression and boost? Ignition computer!

Dean Marcum
88 Turbo-Killing Mustangs and such
89 T N/A-Killing transmissions, rear ends, clutches and an occasional Viper