I'll shortly be undergoing a swap to remedy a bhg and take a modest step towards my intentions for the car.

Originaly I was intent on a built 7M, however these days it (seems to) make(s) far more sence to swap a 1JZ or a 2JZ.

I don't have the experience to do it myself, or the time/space to learn. I do have other vehicles to drive to work, so I'm not overly concerned about a timeline.

It's my understanding that to daily drive a 500+ hp 7M you need a machined deck/head with MHG, forged internals and possibly a balance. And the labour to get all that done adds to a beefy sum.

I spoke to a reputable shop about building my 7M and they offered a 1J or a 2J. I knew they're both strong but I didn't know they come with factory forged internals and all or most gaskets are factory metal. So with the cost of a swap instead comming quite close to that of a built 7M, I have to make a new decision.

I'm a fan of not doing things twice. I've read the stock 1JZ ceramic coated turbos can break after continuous use of 15+ psi. So I intend to go with a single setup using a .57 to .63 trim turbo. At 500+ for the 2JZ I'm told I'll need (they prefer) a standalone system (i think they recomend'd microtech).

I like the idea of a single turbo 1JZ, but the shop said a 2JZ could be had for the difference in the engines and a few extra pieces.

So I'm basicly torn between higher reving/smaller displacement against lower reving/higher potential.

At the moment I'm waiting to see what parts they're fleshing out for each swap to help me make a decision.

The parts needed between the two are not really a factor because they have the same mounts on either block. The 2JZGTE can be had for about 2500 or less and the 1JZGTE can be had for less than a grand. Toss in another grand for parts. Because you have a 5spd you may want to keep it and use your transmission, so all you need is a 1jz bell housing for your R154 which by the way will fit the 2jz block. Because you have an 88 you will have to get some late 89 and later motor mounts for the motor to fit. Wiring will be another issue which if you take your time you should be good to go sans interior stuff which a reputable shop should rememdy without too much difficulty.

Between the 2jz and 1jz.
The 1jz revs higher like you said. It is also much cheaper.
The 2jz has more offered for it in terms of performance and those parts cost quite a bit less than 1jz parts and are easier to come by giving the fact that you are on the wrong side of the pond. The 2jz could reasonably expected to make the 500whp goal without a whole lot of money or effort on your part and it will hold together providing you use reason when it comes to taking care of it. Also with the right head components(from Suprastore.com or Titanmotorsports.com) and rotating assembly the difference in redlines between the two motors will be practically nonexistant. The only downside other than cost is the fact that some things may have to be custom made to fit the motor on the upper end such as down pipes, exhaust manifolds, intercooler piping, ect. As the A70s and A80s have different clearences between the head and fenders and head and firewall.

If you are one for doing it right the first time by all means go with the 2JZ. Its about as bullet proof as they come and the price difference will be made up for by that warm feeling in your chest everynight when you realize that you have a motor designed by the gods.

1 and 2j's did NOT come with factory forged internals. Your shop is lying to you.

No factory forged internals eh? So it just handles more power on stock internals by better design?

What about the gaskets, i'm not too concerned about any other then the head. Should I have a metal one fit before the 2JZ goes in?

Does it make a difference if they are quoting jdm engine specs?

The shop fabricates the mounts and has done 7m builds (up to 800hp) and some 1JZ and 2JZ swaps.

-edit I may have misquoted the shop on the forged internals, we had a lengthy conversation that started when the shop closed. I have a feeling you'd aprove of the shop, shaeff

The 1j and 2j are both newer, and as such, better design. All three (7m, 1j, 2j) are very capable motors.

I believe that the 1 an 2j's have MHG's from the factory.

Ahhh, I see.

I've been looking at supra's for 6 years I think now before I got mine I-Supra is the first place I began to reseach them.

I've got years of reading this site and I'm sure I've twirled a few facts around, especialy not actualy owning one before.

Good to hear about the factory MHG on the 1J 2J.

I'm getting the work done by Randy at BIC performance =) He'll have time for me soon if I can just make up my mind.

Might I suggest reading the MKIII other motor section on Supramania.com. There are quite a few stickied threads that deal with swapping a JZ series motor into a MKIII. Complete with parts lists and prices on parts.

I was going to suggest the same.

Ah, Randy is the man! I have on of his BIC DDP's. Excellent guy to work with, and I take back my previous statement.

Randy is CLASS A, both in products and workmanship! Very good choice for a shop!

I have one of his DDPs as well. I love it. It would be a lot better if I had an electronic boost controller and my wastegate didn't start to open early.

^ It's 10x better with an EBC!

I know. I rode in a friends car(same guy I got mine from) and it was much better. I am thinking I may just save up and get a MAFTpro and knock out the EBC, Piggyback and MAP sensor with one punch. 750 seems fair for the whole kit. Provided Justin727 doesn't still have his.

MAFT pro is definately the way to go my friend. One of my Drag-strip buddies has it as well as a 57trim CT, full 3" exhaust, intercooler, 550's ext. in a '91 turbo and all i can say is wow (that and just wait till my 2J swap). But seriously, with the MAFTpro his car pushes 460+hp easy.

Of course, you're not going to make that kind of power by slapping the Mpro in there and tuning it. You need the supporting mods.

I've got more feedback from the shop.

I think I'm feeling the 2JZ. It's a reasonable price to stick a stock one in with new vavle seals/main seal... err all seals.

So if I go with that, I'm looking to round up the majority of parts that complement a more powerful setup without pulling the engine again (ie 5-600hp capable clutch setup).

If I were to go a little further (single turbo), other then the turbo being out of optimal range and purpose, do you see any issues with running a .57 - .63 on low boost (10psi) without major fuel upgrades on a stock 2jz. I figure BPU would still make similar or more power, but in the end I want a single and to eliminate redundent work (such as tunning stock twins only to swap out later).
I've still got a couple of weeks to decide.

With a good fuel pump, you'll be able to make 400+rwhp on a stock 2jz.

quote:

Originally posted by shaeff:
^ It's 10x better with an EBC!

Or a drjonez manual boost controller.