quote:

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Can I / Were there twin turbo 7Ms?

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Back in the day both greddy and HKS had twin turbo kits for the 7M. Good luck finding one though. The only company still making a manifold is turbo boss. Your only other option is custom.

quote:

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Can I go lexus AFM without the 550s.

---

The short answer is no. Not unless you want to pop your engine. The stock fuel map uses the stock size AFM, the lexus lets in an additional 25% more air. Your ECU will not correct for this and you will run lean. You can, but do so at your own risk.

440s are good for ~400 rwhp. But you will need a fuel pressure regulator, afc/afr, fuel pump and tuning to do it. Also keep in mind that you are working with some old ass injectors

Just be safe and tack on the 550s. It's what the original lexus mod was designed for. You'll also be setting yourself up for future expansion by already having the bigger injectors in.

Rob Carlile on tuning the lex/550s-
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~rcarlile/lexus/lexus1.htm

Reg Reimer the originator and his thoughts-
http://www.supras.com/~riemer/lexusriemer/lexusnotes.html

quote:

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How much hp can the auto trany hold?

---

Without additional cooling it'll hold 300-350 rwhp before it begins to fail. Tighten up the kick down cable, put in some good fluid, and add one or two trany coolers. Doing this has been known to hold ~400 rwhp. Most of the time though, it's gonna crap out in the 300-350 rwhp zone.

quote:

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Can I swap my 86-88 tail lights for the 89+ design?

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Yes, very easy swap. All plug n play aside from one little thing. You need to drill two holes for bolts on the body molding. Actually it's so simple I'm just going to say it's plug n play.

quote:

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Can I swap the front end from an 89+ to a Pre-89 car?

---

Much like the tail light swap, this one is very easy. You will also have to swap out the front turn signals and grill under the top lip. You don't have to swap out the turn signals and top grill, but it will look goofy if you don't. They are diffrent sizes. Very straight forward swap.

quote:

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How light can I get my MK3? What all can I strip out of it?

---

There are several people that have gotten the mk3 sub 3100 range. Me being one of them. Here is a list of some of the things you can take out: AC, TEMS, carpeting & sound deadening material, body panels, speakers, spare tire, extendable rear antenna, back seats, driver & passenger seats (these two alone contribute 130-150 pounds), windshield wiper reservoir and pump, misc brackets, rear seatbelts, latching mechanism for the hood (use hood pins) and the hood supports and hood lifts, lightweight rims.

Some I haven't done, but may do. Aluminum drive shaft, Mustang steering rack, alum flywheel, carbon fiber hood, fiber glassing or using lexan for the rear hatch window. All that glass back there is mad heavy.

Two I have not done, and don't recommend doing are the front and rear bumper supports. Combined I believe they are around 90 pounds.

Even under the 3300 range the mk3 is a completely different animal. Handling, breaking, acceleration are all much better.

quote:

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Can I use X year's differential?

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All differentials are straight bolt up affairs. Any year from any model can be swappable. I used to have the 3.9 lsd, then I swapped it for the 4.3 lsd (out of the sports package NA). One hell of a difference right there.

86.5-88: 3.9X
89-92: 3.7X
NA: 4.30

Autos and Manuals in the turbos have the same diff. All NAs have 4.3, only some of them are LSD though.

quote:

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There is oil in my intercooler pipes. Is something wrong?

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Nothing is wrong. PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) puts all that crap in there. Reroute to a catch can and no more mess.

quote:

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Auto to 5 speed swap?

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www.geocities.com/jg_xsboost
http://www.geocities.com/suprattop/5spdconversion.html
http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=23

quote:

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How can I or where can I get flush/sleepy eyes

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All custom stuff unless you have some nice Jap hookups.

quote:

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What is shimming the wastegate? What does it do?

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This is when you put some washers on the bolts holding the wastegate on the turbo. It tightens the wastegate actuator, making it release abit later. Depending on how many washers you use and the condition of your wastegate, boost gain will vary.

Back when I was on the stock turbo and did this, 3 washers on each of the bolts bumped me up to 9 psi. To get to the wastegate you have to take off the intake accordian hose.


----------------
Good links

TSRM - Factory Manual
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/index.html

SOGI - Supra Owner's Group International
http://www.supras.com/sogidb/index.php

SONIC - Canada SOGI Chapter
http://www.supras.com/~riemer/sonic/sonic.htm

Great website in basic supra maintinence and troubleshooting.
http://lorkers.members.beeb.net/Supra/Supragut.htm

Saab BOV replacement link:
http://www.supras.nl/view.php?page=modsSaabBOV.htm

mk3 Supra FAQ's link:
http://www.supras.com/sogi/faq/

SONIC tech note series link:
http://www.supras.com/~riemer/sonictech/mk3/mk3_pmtn.html

BHG information link:
http://www.pcrealm.net/~howardh/supra/headgasket/background/bhg-repair-bg.htm

Online Toyota Supra Repair Manual link:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/index.html

Supra Magazine Articles link:
http://www.geocities.com/ma71supraturbo/articles.html



----
it's my job to keep punk rock elite

[This message was edited by outofstep on December 05, 2003 at 08:08 AM.]

I posted this before, but it disappeared. Many people have got away with a machine shop finish, but many others have suffered the consequences. Here is what you should do if you dont ever want to worry about a BHG

quote:

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Do I need to surface my block and head before I install my metal head gasket?

---

We all know that the head not only needs to be perfectly flat, but perfectly smooth as well. Machining alone is impractical. After milling the head and block, it may appear to be smooth enough to accomodate a MHG, but you are VERY VERY WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Listen closely Grasshopper:

Metal head gaskets are not designed to cover up the irregularities left behind from a standard mill process from a machine shop. HKS recommends an Roughness Average of <10 microns. Thats way WAY WAY WAY more smooth than any standard automotive machine shop can accomplish on their machine. The finish should be so smooth that you can't feel ANY roughness with your fingernail or see any irregularities in the surface. (Just a rough estimate My first machinist insisted that I would be AOK with his machining, it looked like shit. Here is a word to the wise: Ask to see some samples of aluminum that they have machined (its harder to mill smooth). Unless they have holy and devine capabilities, they will not be able to replicate the factory finish of toyota.
Usually, a HIGH QUALITY shop (not your friend's friend with a mill in his garage) will be able to get it as smooth as you will ever be able to pay for.

So, with the introduction out of the way, here is how PREPARE the head for lapping/MHG:

1. Before any work is done - you should be sure that the time you are about to spend is worthwhile. It would suck to get done and have a stripped out plug hole that you never noticed!! Check every aspect of the head:
a: Check all bolt holes INCLUDING the spark plug holes for stripping. This is common - these heads are aluminum and the bolts are steel.
b: Warpage and cracks. Check the TSRM for specs. A machine shop can be handy for this. Always try to bake a head flat before you have to mill it flat.
c: Cam journal wear and missing caps. You CANNOT use the caps from another head.
d: Large scratches or cracks on the valve seats and between the combustion chambers and water jackets.

2. Have the head cleaned and any valvetrain work done at the machine shop. Hopefully, they will do a pretty good job, just ENSURE that they dont bead blast the cam journal bearing surfaces. Also check that there are no deep scratches when you pick it up. The surface should be uniform in texture and relatively smooth with no large irregularities.

3. Begin to lap the head after all of the work has been accomplished by the machine shop. (Unless you are thermal coating the head combustion chambers) One small scratch after your lap job and you will be PISSED OFF .

Lapping in itself isnt difficult, it is also covered by Reg Remier in his article, and this is one of the first ones I read when I started working on my car. If you are going to install the valves yourself, you should wait until you are done lapping so you can wash the head. If you arent installing them yourself, lap it with the valves in and cover the chambers with grease to keep the abrasive out. I found that a light lubricant - WD-40 - mixed with the abrasive compound was the best for the aluminum head application. Mixing the powder with grease made it much too thick. You wont get a perfect mirror finish, but you should work it until all of the irregularities are out. Take special notice to scratches in between the coolant passages and the combustion chambers.

When you are ready to reassemble the head/block, insert the dowel pins on the HEAD and then place it on the block. These pins will scratch the head much more easily than the cast iron block.

IF YOU RELY ON THE MACHINE SHOP FINISH WITH A MHG, YOU ARE ASKING FOR IT.



I eat rice with my beef.

quote:

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How much horsepower will I get with X ammount of mods?

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Oldschool HKS mod to power levels. Lots of folks don't agree with this path though. It is kinda wacky where and why they choose certain things.

quote:

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HKS

Stage 1 251hp@8psi
Exhaust

Stage 2 259hp@8.5psi
Super Power Flow Air Filter

Stage 3 285hp@11psi
Electronic Valve Controller

Stage 4 298hp@11.5psi
Intercooler System

Stage 5 330hp@13.5psi
PFC F-CON

Stage 6 345hp@13.5psi
Vein Pressure Converter
VPC Power Flow Adapter

Stage 7 438hp@15psi
Sport Turbo Upgrade
Injector & PFC F-CON PROM upgrade

Stage 8 453hp@15psi
Camshafts & Cam Gears

---

In general BPU @ 11-13psi (before fuel cut) will get you in the 270 rwhp range.
BPU + lexus/550 @ 16 psi should get you over 300rwhp
Our nice undersquare engines means the ft/lb numbers are around 70-80 higher than the hp numbers. So it would look something like 280rwhp & 350ft/lb at bpu levels.

----
it's my job to keep punk rock elite

concerning the front end swap(88to89 or 89 to88)
you will need to also swap the upper bumper support.

-----------------------------

Screw the 7m....until i can own 2 supras

quote:

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concerning the front end swap(88to89 or 89 to88)
you will need to also swap the upper bumper support.

---

No you don't, it's exactly the same.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/EPC/MKIII_NATO/291420/5201_1.html
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/EPC/MKIII_NATO/291410/5201_1.html

----
it's my job to keep punk rock elite

i had to change the upper bumper support when i cahnged from 86.5 to 89+ bumper style, the lights wouldnt fit in there was something that went down in the way so they would go in, u can easily bend those things up though. but they are different.

I will throw you a bone. The well known not very tight head gasket torque of 58 lb/ft isnt very much. Some links say around 75 is much better.

The Toyota repair manual for the 3vz-e engine in older pickups and 4runners that have a head gasket campaign, put the torque at 33 lb/ft plus 1/4 turn, plus 1/4 turn. You will need a breaker bar, not a ratchet with a pipe. The ratchet will break.

Thats tight.

The 2JZ gets 25 plus 1/4 turn plus 1/4 turn. Also very tight. ARP head bolts my friends. Chase the threads in the block.

So try that torque amount the next time you pull your head off.

[size=4]Modification Order, MK3 Supra Turbo[/size]

There are many possible modification orders, but this staged list is the system I recommend for increasing your 7m-gte's power while maintaining good reliability (read: this is a conservative order of modification). Please do not begin modifying unless your car is well maintained and running with no problems (i.e. proper head gasket, no overheating issues, good vacuum, good oil pressure, no misses, etc). If your car has any issues, address them now. Additionally please continue to keep up on your car's maintainence. A vacume leak at the accoridan hose, for example, is not a particularly dangerous condition for a stock mk3. But if your car is tuned for optimum power, you have taken away the extra safety of the over-rich factory tune and you could end up doing severe damage by running lean.

The following horsepower figures are estimated at the crank (bhp) and are based on a perfectly running mk3. For reference, a stock MK3 makes 230bhp (232bhp 89+) @ 6.8psi. I chose to list crank HP estimates for a few reasons. Automatic and manual cars make the same power at the engine, but manuals put more of that power to the ground (12-15% M/T drivetrain loss verses ~18-20% A/T). Additionally, modifications like light-weight flywheels and driveshafts will increase the rear wheel horsepower without actually increasing the power at the crank. And finally, because manufacturers list crank horsepower figures so this allows more of a direct comparison with newer cars. That said, it is important to realize that your car may make more or less power depending on a number of factors, so please take these and all horsepower figures with a grain of salt.

And a quick disclaimer: I have linked pictures of example modifications from MVPmotorsports.com just to break the monotony of text. This does not mean that this modification list is in any way sanctioned or warranted by ***. Additionally there are many related topics that are beyond the scope of this FAQ, so I encourage you to do as much research as possible.

Thanks,

Jeff Gore
87T


[size=4]Stage 1:
Intake, 235bhp @ 7psi[/size]
The first thing to do in increasing any engine's performance is to make sure it can flow plenty of air. The simplest way to help an engine breathe better is by installing an aftermarket intake. There are many different brands out there, but Apexi performed the best in this test. For hints on installing a full intake kit, please see this tech tip. While you are at it, I also recommend the SOGI cold-air intake mod.


[size=4]Stage 2:
Cat-back, 250bhp @ ~8psi[/size]
Continuing with the theme of better breathing, the next step is to install a cat-back exhaust. There are even more brands and styles of exhausts than intakes, so take your time and find one which best fits your needs for flow, looks, and sound. If you live in an area where corrosion is a problem, you probably will not want to settle for anything less than a full stainless system.


[size=4]Stage 3:
Downpipe/elbow/primary cat or test pipe, 280bhp @ ~9psi[/size]
If you still want more power, then its time to replace the restrictive stock downpipe, turbo elbow, and secondary catalytic converter. This picture shows one of the simpler downpipes, although there are some downpipes that integrate a turbo elbow and test pipe in one unit. For the environmentally concerned, Random Technologies makes a high-flow cat that will replace the secondary cat, but it obviously will not flow as well as a "test pipe." One word of caution -- downpipes are not legal in all states as they replace the primary catalytic converter.


[size=4]Stage 3.5:
Gauges[/size]
While gauges do not increase power, it is important especially if you want to continue modifying. At this point, you're probably already boosting 9 psi, which exceeds the stock boost gauge. Installing a new one, along with an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) gauge is also a good idea. An Air/Fuel ratio gauge is also good, but readings based on your factory O2 sensor are next to worthless so a wideband 02 sensor would be necessary. Other good gauges to consider are water temperature, oil pressure, and oil temperature. If you can afford it, look for gauges with a peak hold feature. These can be very helpful, as you cannot always pay close attention to your gauges when you are driving hard.


[size=4]Stage 4:
Boost controller, 300bhp @ just under fuel cut[/size]
Now that your engine can breathe freely and you can monitor what it's doing, it is time to turn up the boost with a boost controller. There are inexpensive manual boost controllers out there, but I have found it to be a pain to get out and adjust them every time the weather changes. The solution is an electronic boost controller which can not only be adjusted from inside the car, but some can also learn to better control your wastegate allowing the turbo to spool much faster.


[size=4]Stage 5:
Intercooler and hardpipes, 320bhp @ just under fuel cut[/size]
If you still want more power, you will need to replace your stock intercooler and the restrictive stock intercooler piping. Compressing air creates heat, which can lead to detonation. Since you want to turn up the boost even more, you'll need an intercooler that can not only flow better but also do a better job of keeping the air cool. It also is a good idea to replace your factory bypass valve to prevent compressor surge.


[size=4]Stage 5.5
fuel pump[/size]
When you try to boost too high, your ECU will cut fuel momentarily to prevent engine damage. Now that you want to exceed that limit, it is time to upgrade your fuel system. While it is possible to boost a little over fuel cut on the stock fuel system, it is not recommended -- especially if you have your sights set significantly higher. The first step to upgrading your fuel system is to then replace the fuel pump with one that can move more fuel. Walbro and the stock MKIV tt pump are common choices.


[size=4]Stage 6:
Lexus AFM/550 injectors, 340bhp @ 15psi[/size]
One of the most common ways around fuel cut is to use an Air Flow Meter off a Lexus V8. The basic gist is this air flow meter allows some unmetered air through tricking the stock ECU into thinking it is getting less air than it really is. Because the ECU thinks it is getting less air, the boost at which you hit fuel cut goes up. To offset this extra air, 550 injectors replace the stock 440 units. Details on this upgrade can be found here. Recently, PHR has announced they will make a "map ecu" that will allow consumers to use a much less restrictive MAP sensor instead of an AFM. Details on this product can be found here.


[size=4]Stage 7:
Fuel tuning device and dyno tuning, 375bhp @ 16psi[/size]
At this point, the car could benefit from some fine-tuning. Chances are you will be running rich, so an air/fuel controller can lean out the mixture and help further raise fuel cut. There are many options out there, so do a little research and decide on the best unit for your goals. If you must have the best, a standalone is the way to go but it is much more expensive, and is more difficult to tune (chances are you will have to have a professional tune it).



[size=4]Stage 8:
Upgraded turbo[/size]
You have now reached the useable limits of the stock turbo. It is possible to further increase the boost, but the turbo will be blowing such hot air that you will experience diminishing returns. Which turbo you go with will depend entirely on how far you want to take your Supra. If 450bhp or less is ok you can go with an upgraded CT26. 550bhp or less and you can go with a bolt-on hybrid turbo. If that is not enough, then you will be looking at a bigger turbo that will probably involve some custom work. If you do have your sights set that high, you probably know what you’re doing or will be taking the car to a professional.


My apologies for the use of a competitor's pictures. Moderators are welcome to change them out for pictures from Suprastore.



Also, I'd like to add that my automatic with an aftermarket tranny cooler did not hold 275rwhp for more than 10,000 miles. The transmission had 85,000 miles on it in total.

[This message was edited by p5150 on December 19, 2003 at 11:19 PM.]

quote:

---

had to change the upper bumper support when i cahnged from 86.5 to 89+ bumper style, the lights wouldnt fit in there was something that went down in the way so they would go in, u can easily bend those things up though. but they are different.

---

I recently did a write up of this install. I had no such issue. The upper bumper support is exactly the same. I took picture.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=160465

i have a quick question that may be useful in the faq:

a friend of mine has a 91 turbo mk3 with the ma70 chassis code rather than than the ma71. he said that it was converted to turbo from the factory because they werent selling enough n/a's. it also has the sports package. i was wondering if anybody knows if he has the 4.3 lsd from the n/a sports package or the 3.7 lsd from the turbo sports package since it was converted to turbo from the factory?

There is only one chassis: MA70. MA71 indicates turbo on the vin, with the leading vin MA70 being NA. Your friend is full of it.

actually k3turbo you friend is right. when the mkIII first came out they made too many non- turbo chasis, and insted of just scapping them they put the 7mgte in some of the extra non-turbo chasis. If you look at www.supra.nl there is a story on there about it. As far as him having a n/a diff he doesn't. My 87t has the MA70 chasis code and I have the same diff as i had in my old (now dead) 88t with a MA71 code

Once again, there is only one chassis. The chassis is exactly the same between the NA and the turbo.

A differential or drivetrain has nothing to do with the chassis.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: outofstep,

Hi guys
I just wanted to know if my mk111 computer could control the 2jz motor and if the connector off my mk111 fits mk1v`s computer.

first, you posted in the wrong section. you should have posted in engine and turbo tech section.

second, welcome to the forum.

third, your answer is no. there is no way in hell an mkiii computer will control an mkiv motor.

-shaeff

out of step, when you removed the extendable antenna what did you fill the hole in the body with? body filler? and isnt there something to due with cruise control you can take out to lose weight? also where can i get some info on the Aluminum srive shaft you mentioned. also where would i contact about fiberglassing the rear hatch window. i was also thinking of removing the 3 piece wing on my 89 Turbo being it leaks anyways and should i just fill the holes in the body with body filler? soooo many questions and thank you in adavance.