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Mid-level Member
Picture of Josh8807
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OMG my car is f'd up so bad. I was just driving home i just got my speedometer replaced with a wrong one. Mine read 160 he put one in that says 140 and another line for 150. I paid 390 dollars. Ok went to school on the way home my car jerked real hard it wasn't actin funny before then. Jerked again and i let off the gas and it was fine. I gave it a little gas it jerked from hell and cut off. Then I checked there the oil none on the dipstick. I know its not leaking from the valve covers. I put 4 quarts in and fired it up. I heard this god awful beatin sound like someone was under my hood with a sledge hammer beating the hell out of the engine. I opened the hood and it just got loader even though i put the oil in it read no oil pressure. I checked under the hood again there was oil all over the back of my engine. The car won't run it starts it wouldn't drive over 20 so i stopped and pulled over and hopefully didn't mess anything else up. I'm so fuckin sad. I never had this problem before with any other car i had. Even a honda civic with 200000 miles on it. I don't know what to do.
 
Posts: 180 | Location: Panama City | Registered: March 10, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
CRE
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Where specifically was the oil coming from?

I really hate to say it, but i think a swap is going to probably be the simplest solution... if the banging was that loud you probably broke a connecting rod and punched a hole in the block with it.

I threw a piston clear through an oil pan once... Wink That was interesting.


_____________________________________________
Young enough to know everything, old enough to be wrong about all of it. Wink

Questions about MAFT Pro wiring?
Check here: http://supra.fadingworld.com/Electrical/ for answers BEFORE you PM me. Wink
 
Posts: 279 | Location: Denver, CO | Registered: May 28, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Picture of Josh8807
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I couldn't tell really all i know is it was towards the back passanger side of the engine like I saw oil all over the area underneath the valve cover area.
 
Posts: 180 | Location: Panama City | Registered: March 10, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Picture of Josh8807
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And how much is a swap will i need a long block or what. I have never done one before.
 
Posts: 180 | Location: Panama City | Registered: March 10, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Picture of Justin727
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Time for a rebuild. I saw it comming I new if you kept running it low on oil this was going to happen.


depends 800-1500


 
Posts: 1212 | Location: BILOXI/GULFPORT,MS | Registered: July 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Picture of Josh8807
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I saw on ebay there are these JDM motors. They say they've been compression tested and all and they want around 1000. Do you think it might be cheaper/easier to grab one of those? They come with a warranty too. I have never done a rebuild so i don't know how hard that would be. What would i need?
 
Posts: 180 | Location: Panama City | Registered: March 10, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Picture of 90mk3
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i got my 1jz off ebay and its in great shape. and it would be easyer to do a swap than rebuild a motor. but if you do rebuild you could put better internals vs buying a jdm motor with stock internals.
 
Posts: 103 | Location: lafayette, la | Registered: June 25, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Picture of DigityD'87
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Even if you do go with a used motor I'd still crack her open if i were you, at least to put in a decent head gasket. I'm looking to go the same rout with mine. Rebuild a blown engine with 100,000+ miles or put in a jdm w/ metal HG with only 30,000-50,000...what sounds better to you. I can tell you that having a shop rebuild it could be anywhere between $2,200 and $3,000 asuming you cracked the block and your using all new parts. All i can say after that is dont give up!
 
Posts: 121 | Location: New Hampshire | Registered: November 11, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
CRE
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Personally, I'd rather run an engine completely rebuilt to suit my needs. If you do go with a swap definitely tear id down and check bearing clearance, replace seals have the cylinders checked for roundness and replace the head gasket.


_____________________________________________
Young enough to know everything, old enough to be wrong about all of it. Wink

Questions about MAFT Pro wiring?
Check here: http://supra.fadingworld.com/Electrical/ for answers BEFORE you PM me. Wink
 
Posts: 279 | Location: Denver, CO | Registered: May 28, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Picture of Josh8807
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Ya i would do a rebuild but i work monday thru friday. This is my only car. My mom is taking me to and from work. That shit is hard on her.
 
Posts: 180 | Location: Panama City | Registered: March 10, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Cho
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I might be headed towards a rebuild soon as well. Whats good for 320hp? I want to be able to run it whenever I need it and have the car be able to handle more than that if I need to. I figure something that could drift would usually hold up pretty good.

But how much money would I be looking at?


1992 Toyota Supra Turbo
 
Posts: 44 | Location: Home | Registered: October 18, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Picture of Justin727
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Talk to Sean @ titanmotorsports.com 407-277-8423.


You can pick up a set of eagle Rods for as much as it cost to Shoot peen the stockers. You can find some good pistons out there. CP's are pretty darn good also Titan has just come out with pistons of their own (JE's).

Machine work will cost ya about est. 450.00 including engine balancing.

rods and pistons 800-1200.
ARP main studs 100-115
Eagle rods come with ARP rod bolts
Arp head bolts 90-105
clevite bearings, mains, thrust washers 100.00
MHG 150-280

head work if needing rebuild 800-1000

thats just for the build


 
Posts: 1212 | Location: BILOXI/GULFPORT,MS | Registered: July 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Cho
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Cool beans. If its no more than 3k I'm sure I can eventually get around to doing it. Then its on to the rest of the car.


1992 Toyota Supra Turbo
 
Posts: 44 | Location: Home | Registered: October 18, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Just to make a note...

Suprastore.com's sells are being transferred back to them (slowly but surely) from Titan. So, you can get all these parts and more from a Suprastore.com salesman, ME. PM me if you guys need anything.

-Jordan
 
Posts: 531 | Location: Raleigh, NC | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Mid-level Member
Picture of Josh8807
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Ok so hell from what i'm seein putttin a new engine in is going to run me just as much as rebuildin it exept on a rebuild i can use better stuff. What do u guys recommend for parts i think supra store has a bottom end kit with rods and pistons and such.
 
Posts: 180 | Location: Panama City | Registered: March 10, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Picture of 90mk3
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they also have the head kit for a good price. i was going to buy them before i put my 1jz in.
 
Posts: 103 | Location: lafayette, la | Registered: June 25, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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www.nippon-motors.com
800-416-3626 PT

7MGE used jdm $495
7MGTE I think they're available if you call. hope this helps, good luck.
 
Posts: 119 | Location: Philadelphia, PA | Registered: December 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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